2019-06-08 I’ve bought myself Uboot the game.
It is one of my favourite board games.
Playing with a cardboard uboot is … okay. But when you have a 3D printer .. do i need to say more?
3D printed version assembled and completed in Jan 2021
Led’s are controlled by a Arduino, Mqtt or a fysical button can be used.
Crokinole is played on a circular wooden board, with wooden circular disks as playing pieces.
Possible origin is Canada.
Players take turns shooting disks across the circular wooden board by flicking the disks with their fingers. Players try to land their disks in scoring regions on the board, with the highest scoring area the recessed hole in the very center of the board. Each round, each player/side alternately shoots a set number of disks (usually 12 or 8), shooting one disk each turn.
Players must position their disk on the start of each of their turns in their quadrant in front of them, touching the outer scoring ring boundary.
If there are no opponent’s disks on the board, they must aim for the center of the board.
If there is an opponent’s disk on the board, they must aim and hit an opponent’s piece first, either directly, or by a carrom shot.
The center recessed hole is worth 20 points, and disks are removed and scored at the end of the round if they land in the center hole.
Disks that are outside the outer scoring ring at the end of each shot, or are touching the outer scoring ring at the end of each shot, are removed from play for the round.
I designed playing pieces for a DIY made Shogi board.
Shogi (将棋, shōgi, English: /ˈʃoʊɡi/, Japanese: [ɕoːɡi]), also known as Japanese chess, is a strategy board game for two players. It is one of the most popular board games in Japan and is in the same family of games as Western chess, chaturanga, Xiangqi, Indian chess, and janggi. Shōgi means general’s (shō 将) board game (gi 棋). Western chess is sometimes called (Seiyō Shōgi 西洋将棋 lit. ’Western Shogi’) in Japan.
Shogi was the earliest chess-related historical game to allow captured pieces to be returned to the board by the capturing player. This drop rule is speculated to have been invented in the 15th century and possibly connected to the practice of 15th century mercenaries switching loyalties when captured instead of being killed.
Pieces Lasercut and Laser-engraved
Final board
I’ve designed the pieces and the markings on them using Inkscape.
Instead of the Japanese characters the pieces show the allowed movements. The Circled signs are on the back of the pieces.
Board and traditional characterset
I changed the rules of this game.
Fifty-one is a card game where the aim is to stay under 51 points.
Fifty-one only uses the so-called picket cards; the seven through the ace. The distribution of points is as follows;
Card Points
| 7 | 7 points |
| 8 | 8 points |
| 9 | 0 points |
| 10 | +10 or -10 points |
| Jack | 2 points |
| Queen | 3 points |
| King | 4 points |
| Ace | 1 or 11 points |
The ‘suit’ (hearts/diamonds/clubs/spades) is not important.
At the start of the game, the cards are shuffled, the dealer deals three cards at random to each player and places the remaining cards face down on the table. The person after the dealer now plays a (high) card face up on the table, announces the number of points and takes a new card from the face down pile. The following players now play another card and add the number of points played to the number on the table and take a new card, for example: the first player plays an 8 and says ‘8’, second player plays a 7 and says ’15 ‘, the next player plays a king and says ’19’, the next plays an ace and says ’30’ (or ’20’) etc.
As soon as the point total gets close to 51, players should start playing cards like 9 or (-)10 to prevent the point total from going over 50. The first player who can no longer do this loses the round. After this, the game starts again, the loser usually acts as the new dealer.
If a player manages to collect three identical cards in the course of a round, he can pass. He then places the cards face down on the table, says pass, and stops playing. He can then no longer lose that round. (*)
After playing a card, if a player forgets to take a new card from the stock before the next player has played a card, he must continue playing with the remaining (two) cards.
When the deck of face-down cards is exhausted, the face-up cards are shuffled, placed face-down again, and play continues.
The game is played with 3 or 4 players. With more players there is no opportunity to collect favorable cards. (**)
I’ve played this a lot while traveling with bands on the bus. So what did I change:
(*) I skipped this rule
(**) When changing to the rules below we could play with 6-7 or maybe 8?
I used two decks of cards. Same as above, but I added two sixes, one (or 2) 5 and a 4.
6 Change the direction of playing, so you could be facing another turn when you just played a card!
5 Change hands, in opposite direction of playing (all players)
4 Drop you cards and get 3 new ones OR exchange with another player
3 ? be experimental!
We sometimes just played around with these rules. Just get the rules you are playing with clear at the start of the game
I designed with my friend Richard, a spooky board game.
It was made of two large multiplex pieces, about 75xm by 50cm. With walls 25 cm height (guessing)
There was a ground floor (graveyard) and a dungeon below that. You had to use dice to move, but there were traps.
The ball (4-5cm) was made of scrunched paper with a gypsum layer.
It could take two paths and depending on where you stood with your playing piece, could knock you over.
A few years later my parents bought Ghost Castle/Spookslot. Which was very much alike we’ve made.
Looking at the models i’ve been making the last few years, i could re-make this again??