I took a picture, converted it to grayscale.
Then used Inkscape trace bitmap, brightness cutoff.
With some other options to get multiple gray layers.
I printed these on transparant sheets, using a laser printer.
Made 7-8 layers with a light behind it, it produces a really cool effect.
Welllll .. kinda .. blender using cloth simulation.
I started using cloth simulation to get a blanket “natural/using folds, so not perfect” on a bed scene.
Very cool
I did the donut in Blender!
A few days later i used blender tracking to move around a (incomplete render) of the donut.
I’ve learned a lot by following YT blender tutorials
Printable tracker marks ( https://www.herma.nl/kantoor-thuis/gratis-software/etiketten-assistent-online/etiketten-assistent-online/ )
Herma round labels
For my winerack i engraved some wooden panels.
When doing so, i needed to fix the height of the engraver to get the focus of the beam right.
At start i removed all Z positions from the GCODE file after calibrating. Later i used a script wrote that fixed the height setting to 110.
#!/bin/bash
# Usage: confirm height focus at 110
# ./scriptname filetofix.gcode
myz=110
cat "$1" | sed s/Z1/Z${myz}/g | sed s/Z6/Z${myz}/g > "fixed.$1"
Another tool i made is the one below, it takes a GCODE file, calulates where the borders are (min/max x and y)
And sets the FAN2 (laser intensity to a minimum)
After that it generates GCODE to draw a box wherein the to be engraved object is made
Now you can run the GCODE file multiple times to position it on the wood to you can get the minimum of spoils.
#!/bin/bash
# Usage: scriptname file.gcode
# It wil create a pointtest file for test running
myz=110
MAXX=$(cat "$1" | grep "G0 X" | awk '{ print $2 }' | cut -c2- | sort -n | tail -1)
MINX=$(cat "$1" | grep "G0 X" | awk '{ print $2 }' | cut -c2- | sort -n | head -1)
MAXY=$(cat "$1" | grep "G0 X" | awk '{ print $3 }' | cut -c2- | sort -n | tail -1)
MINY=$(cat "$1" | grep "G0 X" | awk '{ print $3 }' | cut -c2- | sort -n | head -1)
cat > "pointtest - $1" << EOF
;BingoStart
G90
M17 Z
G0 F3000
G0 Z${myz} F3000
M18 Z
G0 X${MINX} Y${MINY}
M106 S2
G0 F3000
G0 X${MINX} Y${MAXY}
M106 S2
G0 F3000
G0 X${MAXX} Y${MAXY}
M106 S2
G0 F3000
G0 X${MAXX} Y${MINY}
M106 S2
G0 F3000
G0 X${MINX} Y${MINY}
M106 S2
G0 F3000
G0 X${MINX} Y${MAXY}
M106 S2
G0 F3000
G0 X${MAXX} Y${MAXY}
M106 S2
G0 F3000
G0 X${MAXX} Y${MINY}
M106 S2
G0 F3000
G0 X${MINX} Y${MINY}
M106 S2
M107
;end
EOF
GCODES
More info about gcodes: http://www.science.smith.edu/cdf/pdf_files/Techno_GCODE%20Commands.pdf
Changed some code controlling my wacom drawing tablet.
I use this one to draw Art, diagrams and touch up photo’s.
When using multiple screens, i had the problem it would stretch the draw area over multiple screens, streching the ratio. Or it took the work screen to work on.
#!/bin/bash
# using xinput here, check post about two mouses/keyboards on one machine
# Use xrandr to check names check
MONITOR="DP-1"
PAD_NAME='Wacom BambooFun 6x8 Pad pad'
#undo
xsetwacom --set "$PAD_NAME" Button 1 "key +ctrl +z -z -ctrl"
xsetwacom --set "$PAD_NAME" Button 2 "key e"
xsetwacom --set "$PAD_NAME" Button 3 "key h"
ID_STYLUS=`xinput | grep "Pen stylus" | cut -f 2 | cut -c 4-5`
xinput map-to-output $ID_STYLUS $MONITOR
ID_STYLUS_2=`xinput | grep "Pen eraser" | cut -f 2 | cut -c 4-5`
xinput map-to-output $ID_STYLUS_2 $MONITOR
exit 0
Most of the times i use Krita and Gimp.
I have a rol of printer paper that was used by an old 8bit computer. I forgot which one, one out of my collection.
I dont think it is thermal paper, maybe the printer uses electricity just like the movie clip you see below. (Well .. not using 220V directly on the paper maybe) 🙂
In 2012 I started with 3D printing, I didn’t have my own yet. So it was done using shapeways.
April 2019 I ordered my own, a Creality CR-10S.
Specs
Problem with this 3D Printer is the lack of a thermal runaway detection. My solution is a MQTT/Nodered warning system which plays an alarm and uses a shelly to disconnect the power.
https://www.henriaanstoot.nl/2022/05/11/mqtt-bash-nodered-notify/
Software I Use – see other posts
Hardware
I’m using a filament sensor like the one in below picture
It used to be a DIY thingy using an arduino. (below)
Filament under my table ( in the “dark” )
Software on my mobile
Hints and tips
Want to know what filament is in your gcode?
grep M104 <file.gcode> # M104 is the temperature M104 200 -> PLA M104 240 -> PETG
Laser engraving using my 3D printer (pre lasercutter)
Websites
UPDATE 20230803
Best gap filler i found which is easily sanded down with a dremel.
Alabastine Polyester Plamuur
Location Noot en Zo Utrecht .. with Arja en Coline
Why? Because i can
While on holiday in New Zealand i made photos of a rock i found on the campsite we where. Nothing special about the rock, but it was a nice subject to try to replicate.
So i took many many pictures of the stone from all sides.
Imported those images in meshroom and convered it to a 3D stl object.
Printing and airbrushing
Added some grass from our clock project
Made a design for my Laptop, using a Wordcloud which i’m going to print using a transparent sticker.
