Workshop Cyanotype

The cyanotype (from Ancient Greek kuáneos, “dark blue” and túpos, “mark, impression, type”) is a slow-reacting, photographic printing technique. It produces a cyan-blue print used for art as monochrome imagery applicable on a range of supports, and for reprography in the form of blueprints. For any purpose, the process usually uses two chemicals: ferric ammonium citrate or ferric ammonium oxalate, and potassium ferricyanide, and only water to develop and fix. Announced in 1842, it is still in use.

This technique was also used as a method of copying drawings.
For example buildings and schematics. While making copies of drawings with the exact dimensions of the original, making the result untemperable was another big plus. ( You could not move/redraw walls for example on the copy)

I’ve printed a photo on transparant sheets to experiment with.
(Next time, i’ll take a larger size, and fix the contrast.

The most interesting ones i’ve made today:

Composite video PCB working

UPDATE 20221108

Soldered the components on the print
No more sync issues! (see post https://www.henriaanstoot.nl/2022/10/19/composite-video-with-atmega328p/ )

There are some duplicate characters, the input device below does not have a proper debounce method.

My temporary input device (note hex 21 is a “!” character)

No need to fix the debounce, the dipswitches are temporary. This will be controlled by the VIA 6522 chip.

UPDATE 20221108 (Connected to second VIA)

PORTB = $5000
PORTA = $5001
DDRB = $5002
DDRA = $5003
clock = $e0

E  = %10000000
RW = %01000000
RS = %00000000

  .org $0200

reset:
  ldx #$ff
  txs

  lda #%11111111 ; Set all pins on port B to output
  sta DDRB
  lda #%10000000 ; Set top pin on port A to output
  sta DDRA
  lda #$00  ; reset bit
  sta PORTA
  sta clock

  ldx #0
print:
  lda message,x
  beq printborder
  jsr print_char
  inx
  jmp print

loop:
  jmp loop

message:
        .db 0x01,0x04,0x0C,0x0E,0x10,0x0F,0x08
        .db 0x05,0x0a,0x0a
        .db 0x05,0x0b,0x0b
        .asc "Composite Video 6502 - 20221108"
        .db 0x0E,0x11,0x0F,0x0C
        .asciiz " With 2 pixels "

waitloop:
  pha
  tya
  pha
  ldy #$ff
back:
  dey
  bne back
  pla
  tay
  pla
  rts

print_char:
  sta PORTB
  jsr waitloop
  jsr waitloop
  lda clock
  eor #%10000000
  sta clock
  sta PORTA
  jsr waitloop
  lda clock
  eor #%10000000
  sta PORTA
  jsr waitloop
  rts

Control codes as from : http://searle.x10host.com/MonitorKeyboard/index.html

Video display control codes:
Hex (Decimal) and meaning
01 (01) - Cursor home (Standard ASCII)
02 (02) - Define cursor character (2nd byte is the curs character, or 00 to turn off) <--New for 3.0
03 (03) - Cursor blinking
04 (04) - Cursor solid
05 (05) - Set graphics pixel (next two bytes = x,y) <--New for 3.0
06 (06) - Reset graphics pixel (next two bytes = x,y) <--New for 3.0
08 (08) - Backspace (Standard ASCII)
09 (09) - Tab (Standard ASCII)
0A (11) - Linefeed (Standard ASCII)
0C (12) - Clear screen (Standard ASCII)
0D (13) - Carriage return (Standard ASCII)
0E (14) - Set column 0 to 79 (2nd byte is the column number) or 0 to 39 for a 40 char line
0F (16) - Set row 0 to 24 (2nd byte is the row number)
10 (16) - Delete start of line
11 (17) - Delete to end of line
12 (18) - Delete to start of screen
13 (19) - Delete to end of screen
14 (20) - Scroll up
15 (21) - Scroll down
16 (22) - Scroll left
17 (23) - Scroll right
18 (24) - Set font attribute for the current line (see elsewhere on this page for details) <--New for 3.0
1A (26) - Treat next byte as a character (to allow PC DOS char codes 1 to 31 to be displayed on screen)
1B (27) - ESC - reserved for ANSI sequences
1C (28) - Cursor right
1D (29) - Cursor Left
1E (30) - Cursor up
1F (31) - Cursor down
20 (32) to 7E (126) - Standard ASCII codes
7F (127) - Delete
80 (128) to FF (255) - PC (DOS) extended characters

Home Assistant/NodeRed update

Upgraded the 2nd (Main) nodered machine to 3.0
Now the node-red-contrib-home-assistant-websocket nodes work again.

Also updated HA, and added some iframes using below.
The HA update broke my mqtt lighting due to changes in the code.

Below also in the example some iframe entries.
( When adding grafana, you need to change grafana.ini

allow_embedding = true

mqtt:
 broker: mqttbrokerserver <--- still errors on this part, 
 discovery: true   <--- but where to configure?
 light:                             <--- Moved this under mqtt
  - name: "KitchenOutside"          <--- added a dash
    payload_on: "99"
    payload_off: "0"
    unique_id: "KitchenOutside"
    brightness_scale: "99"
    brightness_state_topic: ha433/kitchenoutside/brightcontrol
    brightness_command_topic: ha433/kitchenoutside/brightcontrol
    state_topic: ha433/kitchenoutside/brightcontrol
    command_topic: ha433/kitchenoutside/control
    optimistic: false
    on_command_type: brightness

panel_iframe:                     <--- iframes added
  nodered:
    title: "NodeRed"
    url: "http://noderedserver:1880/"
    icon: si:nodered
    require_admin: true
  domoticz:
    title: "Domoticz"
    url: "http://domoticzserver:8080/"
    icon: si:homeadvisor
    require_admin: true
    
influxdb:
    host: influxserver
    port: 8086
    database: homeassistant
    max_retries: 3
    default_measurement: state <--- changed this
    

HomeAssistant add long-lived access token:

  • Click you profile icon bottom right
  • Scroll all the way down and press create token

Node-red

Add a HA node to a flow, double click and add a server with the little pencil

Base URL is important, you can’t just add http://internalip:port
Use a the URL configured in HA (config/network)

Hidden remotes

While having a lot automated, and controllable via apps, we sometimes need the remotes (TV/Chromecast/Mediacenter/etc)

They are always … gone, lost.

So i made a little wooden thingamajig, which is hidden behind our couch.
Maybe an idea also useful for you?

The gap between, the couch and the wall is there because of airflow and the skirting boards.

When looking from a normal perspective, you can’t see them.
(I still have to paint them in the same color as our wall)

In the wooden compartments is some bubble wrap plastic.
It has long “feet” so i can position it anywhere.

On the sides are power outlets for laptops, and usb charging cables.

Automating the h*ll out of windows applications using linux

I’m using a windows program for typesetting bagpipe music.
Luckily this runs on Linux using wine.

Sometimes i just want a PDF version of a tune, for example for my tunebook compiler. (Other post)
Or i want to batch convert a lot of bww files.

A long time ago i used a virtual machine with automation software for this.
Why not automate the process on my Laptop?

So i made this script, with a workaround for the xdotool wine problem.
(wine window needs to be active to accept key strokes, other linux xwindows you can use the ID of the window)

#!/bin/bash
# use c for close at the end, without c bgplayer wont be shut down
# bww2pdf path/to/music.bww c
# make tmp file
cat "$1" > /tmp/deze.bww
# start bgplayer if not started .. if not started wait 3 secs
slp=0
pgrep BGPlayer.exe >/dev/null || slp=3
pgrep BGPlayer.exe  >/dev/null|| ( nohup wine ~/.wine/dosdevices/c\:/Program\ Files\ \(x86\)/Bagpipe\ Player/BGPlayer.exe & )
sleep $slp
# get program id
pid=$(pgrep BGPlayer.exe)
# get xwindow id using pid
winid=$(xdotool search --limit 1 --all --pid $pid)
# activate window
xdotool search --desktop 0 --class "BGPlayer.exe" windowactivate
# open file menu and Open file
xdotool key --window $winid "alt+f"
xdotool key --window $winid "o"
# give program time to execute
sleep 1
# open our tmp file
xdotool type '\tmp\deze.bww'
xdotool key KP_Enter
sleep 2
# open file menu select Print and PDF as output
xdotool key "alt+f"
xdotool key "p"
xdotool key "P"
sleep 2
# execute
xdotool key KP_Enter
sleep 1
# File close
xdotool key "alt+f"
xdotool key "c"
sleep 2
# close program when c was added to commandline
mv ~/PDF/deze* "$1.pdf"
if [ "$2" == "c" ] ; then 
	xdotool key "alt+f"
	xdotool key "x"
fi
I’m not touching the keyboard when the program is running, all handled by the script

Prints from China

A few weeks ago i designed a print using Kicad.

Today they have arrived!

Now I have to wait a little more .. A 74HTC166 and a straightup RCA connector.

I the past, a long time ago i made my own single side pcb’s using acids.
A messy job, often gone wrong.

Old skool example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PwCp3A3RSk

Or https://www.circuitsonline.net/artikelen/view/1/print

Home Assistant and 433 Dimmers

Getting 433Mhz dimmers working under HA is a pain in the *ss.

After moving my Rfxcom from domoticz to HA, there was still no good way to add dimmers.
I’ve tried adding switches and migrating them to lights, but it didn’t work.

So i took another approach.

Domoticz has a good 433 to mqtt plugin. So i used NodeRed to talk to HA and Domoticz via MQTT.

Rfxcom 433Mhz

Domoticz

MQTT gateway setup

Home Assistant

/config/configuration.yaml

light:    
  - platform: mqtt
    name: "KitchenOutside"
    payload_on: "99"
    payload_off: "0"
    unique_id: "KitchenOutside"
    brightness_scale: "99"
    brightness_state_topic: ha433/kitchenoutside/brightcontrol
    brightness_command_topic: ha433/kitchenoutside/brightcontrol
    state_topic: ha433/kitchenoutside/brightcontrol
    command_topic: ha433/kitchenoutside/control
    optimistic: false
    on_command_type: brightness
  - platform: mqtt
    name: "Living5Spots"
    payload_on: "30"
    payload_off: "0"
    unique_id: "Living5Spots"
    brightness_scale: "30"
    brightness_state_topic: ha433/Living5Spots/brightcontrol
    brightness_command_topic: ha433/Living5Spots/brightcontrol
    state_topic: ha433/Living5Spots/brightcontrol
    command_topic: ha433/Living5Spots/control
    optimistic: false
    on_command_type: brightness

Node Red

Flow

Node-RED Deploy
Search flows
Node	
"d4aab6722750908c"
Type	function
show more 
Export nodes
Export
[
    {
        "id": "31dba0859e04acb4",
        "type": "mqtt in",
        "z": "a49c5bcd66c12a46",
        "name": "",
        "topic": "ha433/kitchenoutside/brightcontrol",
        "qos": "2",
        "datatype": "auto",
        "broker": "8c74c5f6.9a7a48",
        "nl": false,
        "rap": true,
        "rh": 0,
        "inputs": 0,
        "x": 330,
        "y": 160,
        "wires": [
            [
                "e2501f2b6e2ab43d"
            ]
        ]
    },
    {
        "id": "e2501f2b6e2ab43d",
        "type": "function",
        "z": "a49c5bcd66c12a46",
        "name": "Dimmer function",
        "func": "var idx = 9735;\nvar bright = msg.payload;\nmsg.payload = {};\nmsg.payload = {\"command\": \"switchlight\", \"idx\": idx, \"switchcmd\": \"Set Level\", \"level\": bright};\nreturn msg;",
        "outputs": 1,
        "noerr": 0,
        "initialize": "",
        "finalize": "",
        "libs": [],
        "x": 690,
        "y": 160,
        "wires": [
            [
                "5f0314b0950d24c0"
            ]
        ]
    },
    {
        "id": "5f0314b0950d24c0",
        "type": "mqtt out",
        "z": "a49c5bcd66c12a46",
        "name": "",
        "topic": "domoticz2/in",
        "qos": "",
        "retain": "",
        "respTopic": "",
        "contentType": "",
        "userProps": "",
        "correl": "",
        "expiry": "",
        "broker": "8c74c5f6.9a7a48",
        "x": 970,
        "y": 160,
        "wires": []
    },
    {
        "id": "95eb4d0ed97fdefb",
        "type": "mqtt in",
        "z": "a49c5bcd66c12a46",
        "name": "",
        "topic": "ha433/kitchenoutside/control",
        "qos": "2",
        "datatype": "auto",
        "broker": "8c74c5f6.9a7a48",
        "nl": false,
        "rap": true,
        "rh": 0,
        "inputs": 0,
        "x": 320,
        "y": 220,
        "wires": [
            [
                "d4aab6722750908c"
            ]
        ]
    },
    {
        "id": "d4aab6722750908c",
        "type": "function",
        "z": "a49c5bcd66c12a46",
        "name": "Off function",
        "func": "var idx = 9735;\nvar bright = 0;\nmsg.payload = {};\nmsg.payload = {\"command\": \"switchlight\", \"idx\": idx, \"switchcmd\": \"Set Level\", \"level\": bright};\nreturn msg;",
        "outputs": 1,
        "noerr": 0,
        "initialize": "",
        "finalize": "",
        "libs": [],
        "x": 670,
        "y": 220,
        "wires": [
            [
                "5f0314b0950d24c0"
            ]
        ]
    },
    {
        "id": "8c74c5f6.9a7a48",
        "type": "mqtt-broker",
        "name": "mqttserver",
        "broker": "mqttserver",
        "port": "1883",
        "clientid": "",
        "usetls": false,
        "compatmode": true,
        "keepalive": "15",
        "cleansession": true,
        "birthTopic": "",
        "birthQos": "0",
        "birthPayload": "",
        "closeTopic": "",
        "closePayload": "",
        "willTopic": "",
        "willQos": "0",
        "willPayload": ""
    }
]
Mqtt Broker output

So …. this works, and i have now a generic mqtt “router”

Update: Below works now

Streaming, recording, videocall and more

I use a bunch of different tools to create video’s or stream stuff.
Below is some info about those tools.

Software:

  • Kdenlive – Linear video editor (Adding text, transitions, etc)
  • VLC media player – For example to embed video in OBS
  • OBS – Opensource Broadcast software, i use this also to record my screen – You can use this as a virtual webcam, so you can fool around with the image.
  • Audacity – For editing audio
  • QPrompt – Teleprompter

For OBS i made a shortcut/macro keyboard thingy. Based on an arduino pro mini. (Which can connect to a computer acting like a HID, for example a keyboard or mouse)
I use this one to emulate keystrokes which i’ve configured in OBS to do:

  • Switch to scene 1
  • Switch to scene 2
  • Transition from scene to scene
  • Start streaming
  • Start recording
  • Mute
  • [empty] – sometimes used as “start virtual webcam”
  • Slow transition
  • Blank screen
  • Display overlay text

(Originally i planned to do this with a Nextion Display)

Mobile Phone holder, like a third hand

Sometimes a Nikon on a tripod is better.

I don’t have a dedicated webcam for my battlestation. So i mainly use a Actioncam (4k) which can be connected via USB. Or i use a Nikon together with the Camlink.

So i record using my mobile, webcam, screen record
Edit using Audacity and Kdenlive.

When recording with OBS i use MP4 as a container, this is a no-brainer to embed in websites. Use mkv when recording long shots, or when connections can break. (A mp4 will be corrupted)

ffmpeg -i streamrecord.mkv -codec copy putinmp4container.mp4

I’ve played around with StreamFX which gives you some nice extra tools.
(There are loads of plugins to download)
Using websockets is on my todolist.

A little OBS trick without green screen

StreamFX example

Working on a blender animation.
Realtime screen grab, which gets 3D placed in a scene.

Smoker, BBQ tips n tricks

I love to bbq outside, winter, snow/rain whatever.
There is no excuse. There are periods where i use a bbq like 3-4 times per week.
Sometimes just to get a nice smokey hamburger.

I’ve written this post because sometimes i see (or smell) some rookie mistakes. (Wrong type of smoke, using accelerants)

I’ve got a offset smoker
https://www.henriaanstoot.nl/2019/06/16/smoker/

A Weber One Touch

And a Skottle Braai

All have their own benefits,and restrictions.

The tips below are the ones i find useful and are MY opinion, but i’m just an amateur and could be wrong 🙂

Offset smoker:

Offset smoker with on the left a cold smoke part ( for cheese and fish ) Some hops behind the Smoker

An offset smoker is perfect for ribs, brisket and other meats that are perfect to take some time to absorb smoke and get better when slowly cooked.

When going Low and slow, i follow these rules:

  • Try to leave the lid closed! No need to let the slowly buildup temperature get away from your meat!
  • Need to know the temperature? Use the one on your kettle or even better, one with a little cable to leave it outside of the heating chamber.
    (See tools)

Weber:

I use this one to do a fast steak (below more about this),smoking nuts and pizza.

  • Use a lid to hold some of the moisture.
  • Use a line of bricks though the middle to create a little cold/hot zone.
    (See pictures)
  • Buy a second grid/grate with a easy accessible opening.
    I’ve used an angle grinder to open a part of the grid.
    This allows easy access to the coals.
  • When making pizza, use a stone slate, and lay your coals at the side, in a horseshoe fashion.
    Some people say .. crank the temperature up to 400 something degrees.
    Far to high to my liking .. 200 is enough
Tomahawk with a tray below it, brick divider ( indirect / direct part )
Cold smoked salmon using a cold smoke generator (filled with wood dust)
Pizza on a stone slate, i use this slate also for Smoked Chocolate Chip Cookies !
Smoked nuts, cheese sausages and eggs.

Skottle Braai:

This one is perfect for fried rice, meats/vegetables which need fluids.
(Some satay/chinese stirfries or small piece meat like Shawarma.

Another way to stir fry is with our beer brew burner

For all things above:

Prepare everything, get your timing right.
Sometimes you are smoking for 6+ hours, but when you forgot to make a marinade, getting things sliced or need a product you dont have/forgot/gone bad .. (i’ve been there)


For the offset smoker .. i don’t use tuning plates .. and probably never will.
Tuning plates can be used to get your smoker front to back evenly heated. This is only useful when cooking a lot of meat.
I seldom do, so i use the colder part whenever things are going too fast.

I even used a Flir camera to check the temperature distribution


Using a lot of heat? Don´t put pepper on your meat. It will burn, just wait when it’s on your plate.
Salt is fine.


Using briquettes or charcoal?
Briquettes, when properly lighted, doesn´t give you a nasty smoke as plain charcoal, charcoal needs more time to burn properly. Briquettes will last for a long time. (See below tools)
Coconut briquettes are perfect for slow cooking .. they burn for a long time.
Use a chimney and wait until all briquettes are white!

Look at the smoke, it should be thin blue-ish. Not thick or white or even black.
Except for smoking woods.


Smoke wood: I’ve tried a lot of smokewoods. Cherry, wine vines, Apple, Pear, hickory, oak, maple and more.
Some people and even packages say: “Soak for 30 minutes in water”
Well i don’t, then the smoke is mostly water vapor.
If you make a neat aluminum foil package with a few little holes, it won’t burst into flames and produces a nice amount of smoke which lasts a while.

Pack tightly and only a few small holes
Tube wood chip holder

Don’t use accelerants like spirit. It gives a nasty taste/smell.


Use different plates and tools for raw and cooked meat.


Look at the core temperature, for example for beef

Rare: 50 to 52 degrees
Medium rare: 55 to 58 degrees
Medium: 60 to 63 degrees
Medium Well: 65 to 67 degrees
Well done: 70 to 80 degrees

Stop before it reaches the desired temperature. Wrap in foil and wait a few minutes. The temperature will rise a few degrees


Trying to get your temperature up again by adding briquettes or wood?
Sometimes fuel is getting low and temperature is dropping.
I seldom but briquettes or wood directly in the fire, it wil give a nasty smoke when it start burning .. I use the chimney to get it burning right.
Then i will place it in the offset chamber.


Using a drip bucket? Or want to use more moisture for your meat?
Heat some apple juice or plain water, and put this in a container below the meat. (See the tomahawk picture above)


The hand trick to check your meat does not really work.
A IT consultant and a bricklayer have different hands, and muscles. 🙂
But it can be an indicator!

Tools:

Spatula, Tongs, Fork, and Basting Brush

Chimney:
You need this!

Fast and easy getting your fire ready

Trays and foils:
Use heavy duty aluminum foil.

The open one i also used to smoke grains for beer brewing.

Beer grains

Rubs, sauces and spices:
Get yourself some nice different rubs and sauces.
Make your own rubs (or sauce)
I will post some recipes for rubs and the smokey red wine sauce i’ve made.
Remember which spices are going to burn in a dry rub.
Sauce is not only to complement the meat, but you can also use it to glace the meat while cooking!

Injecting:

Injecting game stock into meat. Right a spices cabinet i build which can be turned almost 180 degrees.

Injecting meat will give it a nice flavor and tenderness.

Fire starters:

Use a starter which burns clean .. no smoke no odor

Temperature:

Dual temperature sensor

Use a wireless dual temperature sensor, one for the meat (core) and one for the temperature in the Bbq.

For a fast reading, for example in ribs, i use below speed sensor

Reads temperature in 2 seconds

Use pin for testing tenderness

Or … going fancy with my own build bbq watch .. (separate post)

Small pieces of meat? Use a fine mazed mat like this

To moisturize your meat or apply seasoning like apple juice, use a plant spay

At last .. some tips for you to try:


(No links to recipes on the internet, just google there are many .. i will post recipes i’ve tried myself)

Ribs 3-2-1 method

Got a nice steak with a fat cap?
Try argentina style.
Just do a 3-minutes per site. (Even better .. use a pre-heated iron cast grate to get some nice lines.
At the end press the meat on the grate, so the fat melts and drips onto the coals. These wil burn and give big flames. Those burning flaming fat wil give your beef a taste to remember!

Cast iron grate


Briskett

Cold smoking

Moinkballs

Beercan Chicken

"If something is worth doing, it's worth overdoing."