Bought myself a Jeppesen Sanderson Slide Graphic “Computer” (1989)
I like those “old skool” manual/analog instruments.
SextantPocket Sundial
I want to use this together with my flightsimulator.
A flight computer is a form of circular slide rule used in aviation and one of a very few analog computers in widespread use in the 21st century
They are mostly used in flight training, but many professional pilots still carry and use flight computers. They are used during flight planning (on the ground before takeoff) to aid in calculating fuel burn, wind correction, time en route, and other items. In the air, the flight computer can be used to calculate ground speed, estimated fuel burn and updated estimated time of arrival. The back is designed for wind correction calculations, i.e., determining how much the wind is affecting one’s speed and course.
I started playing the pipes for the Highland Dancers a long time ago.
I wanted to know at least the Highland Fling, so i could understand what it is for the dancers. I learned the Fling from Monique and Yvonne. Yvonne tried to learn me to walz. But that was it for a loong time.
Then in 2008, 2009 we joined a Country Dance group. (Monique, Coline and I)
So I bought some size 45 (11.5) dance shoes.
At least the “little green book” with dance diagrams looks cool.
Maybe you also have a white area to fill, here is a suggestion.
For years we collected picture frames, weird and ugly. We wanted to have a collection of images in our staircase, to fill the white area. The images are all something we like, have interest in or are personal.
It needed to be on 3 walls, so here was my first design.
Most left .. picture around the cornerIn the end a total of 110
We play a lot of different whistles in our folkband.
But as always it started with one simple high-d tinwhiste. We bought many more in all kinds of keys and also Flutes.
I wanted to have a Low whistle, so i did some research and made my own.
When making a whistle you have to take into account the diameter and wall thickness of your material. Even the hole distances together with its diameter is important. After a lot of calculating and some trial ‘n error.
I had my first own made Low-D whistle. The mouthpiece was the hardest part. But it worked!
After that I made a Low-Eflat which you can use together with Highland Pipes. Also a Low-G was build, for this one i used the mouthpiece of another (bought) low whistle.
Some old pictures below.
And the Eflat & G whistles.
Old picture, 2 gray ones are DIY
I tried to make one using metal, but i didn’t have the right tools to do so.
I made a Android Application a few years later to do the calculations.
Fifty-one is a card game where the aim is to stay under 51 points.
Fifty-one only uses the so-called picket cards; the seven through the ace. The distribution of points is as follows;
Card Points
7
7 points
8
8 points
9
0 points
10
+10 or -10 points
Jack
2 points
Queen
3 points
King
4 points
Ace
1 or 11 points
The ‘suit’ (hearts/diamonds/clubs/spades) is not important.
At the start of the game, the cards are shuffled, the dealer deals three cards at random to each player and places the remaining cards face down on the table. The person after the dealer now plays a (high) card face up on the table, announces the number of points and takes a new card from the face down pile. The following players now play another card and add the number of points played to the number on the table and take a new card, for example: the first player plays an 8 and says ‘8’, second player plays a 7 and says ’15 ‘, the next player plays a king and says ’19’, the next plays an ace and says ’30’ (or ’20’) etc.
As soon as the point total gets close to 51, players should start playing cards like 9 or (-)10 to prevent the point total from going over 50. The first player who can no longer do this loses the round. After this, the game starts again, the loser usually acts as the new dealer.
If a player manages to collect three identical cards in the course of a round, he can pass. He then places the cards face down on the table, says pass, and stops playing. He can then no longer lose that round. (*)
After playing a card, if a player forgets to take a new card from the stock before the next player has played a card, he must continue playing with the remaining (two) cards.
When the deck of face-down cards is exhausted, the face-up cards are shuffled, placed face-down again, and play continues.
The game is played with 3 or 4 players. With more players there is no opportunity to collect favorable cards. (**)
I’ve played this a lot while traveling with bands on the bus. So what did I change:
(*) I skipped this rule (**) When changing to the rules below we could play with 6-7 or maybe 8?
I used two decks of cards. Same as above, but I added two sixes, one (or 2) 5 and a 4.
6 Change the direction of playing, so you could be facing another turn when you just played a card!
5 Change hands, in opposite direction of playing (all players)
4 Drop you cards and get 3 new ones OR exchange with another player
3 ? be experimental!
We sometimes just played around with these rules. Just get the rules you are playing with clear at the start of the game
I designed with my friend Richard, a spooky board game. It was made of two large multiplex pieces, about 75xm by 50cm. With walls 25 cm height (guessing)
There was a ground floor (graveyard) and a dungeon below that. You had to use dice to move, but there were traps.
Hidden trapdoors
A ball which knocked you over
Closed doors
Monsters
Puzzles
Drawing i made in 2023 from what i can remember.
The ball (4-5cm) was made of scrunched paper with a gypsum layer. It could take two paths and depending on where you stood with your playing piece, could knock you over.
A few years later my parents bought Ghost Castle/Spookslot. Which was very much alike we’ve made.
Looking at the models i’ve been making the last few years, i could re-make this again??
"If something is worth doing, it's worth overdoing."
